By Scott Reitz | Dallas Observer | 2014 December 10

 

Shul lung tang, at LA Han Bat and elsewhere, doesn't make a great first impression. It's a Korean soup made from beef bones and cuts of meat, and it's bland and lacking at first, like a blurry picture of what seems like an otherwise respectable bowl of sustenance. But the offending quality -- a complete lack of seasoning -- is no accident. The soup is served alongside a small jar of sea salt that awaits on the table, with a plastic spoon for scooping. Once a half teaspoon or so is sprinkled in, the rich beef flavors in the broth quickly come into focus.

There's chili paste too, for more warmth, and a big plastic bin of chopped green onions, which should be added aggressively when the bowl first arrives, so they wilt and shrivel in the steamy broth. There's also a bowl of kimchi and pickled daikon on the table. Munched on between sips of soup, they scrub the palate and provide a welcome change of texture.

 

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